Tales of Seven

Caves Don't Have Bathroom Doors

Urgup, Turkey

Like a honeycomb, cave homes were etched out of the hillsides in Urgup long ago, and as nearby Cappadocia grows some have converted into novel cave hotels. During our visit, we ended up staying at the recently opened Melekler Evi cave hotel.

It's a completely unique experience to stay in one of their rooms... The ceilings and walls are entirely made out of a light, soft stone with tens of thousands of etch marks from the first excavation.  Tiny alcoves hold candles that blacken the ceiling above them, and ancient rusted hardware is still driven into the walls. Heavy quilts, wood furniture and and throw rugs help with the fall chill. Just light gauze curtains separate rooms. And there is silence that only thick stone walls can bring. 

Dinner in a tiny dining room in front of a warm fireplace .... a bottle of wine from the hotel's cave wine cellar.... perfect little refuge.

Umut

 
 
 Picture credit Melekler Evi 

Colors of Turkey

 



 

Cistern

Istanbul, Turkey

The air cools by 5-6 degrees as we walk down the stairwell into the dimly lit underground cistern. Unending rows of thick stone columns, flat, motionless black water and the sound of dripping water - eyes adjusting. The occasional drip falling onto a bare arm or camera.

The underground cistern in Istanbul was one of my very favorite spots in the city.

 

       
 
 

Of Roosters and Caves and Old Donkey Carts

Urgup, Turkey

Cobblestone streets and roosters running free. A hillside dotted with caves and half collapsed houses. Grape tressles, abandoned donkey carts, cats prowling for dinner and the sound of bells on wandering sheep.

Urgup is built on a base of ancient history and alive with the metabolism of unspoiled small town - and  a  perfect place to stay while visiting Cappadocia.

-- A few pictures from a beautiful sunset walk below -- 

     

 
 
 
 

Tiny Turkish Emissary

Urgup, Turkey

We were out for a sunset walk in the hillside town of Urgup when this little girl came up to me, her hand extended. In it was a light blue hair clip with sparkles - a prized little girl possession - and a gift she insisted on giving, despite protestations, to the visitor wandering her streets.

Tiny emissary -- the most beautiful welcome may come in the smallest of packages.

kız çocuk

White & Blue

 
Nevşehir, Turkey - Cappadocia

 

 

Turkish Viagra?

A little roadside stand touts the power of the apricot. 

'nough said :)

Cappadocia - Nevşehir, Turkey
 

Wash of Blue

Over doors, on rear view mirrors, on the tail of a plane - its image in the design of a pool. Plain or be-tassled the evil eye glass, meant to ward against the evil eye, is a beautiful wash of blue to be found absolutely everywhere in Turkey. 

nazar boncuğu

 
 

Goat Jam

Nevşehir, Turkey

goat jam (n): vehicles jammed together or otherwise unable to move except slowly due to obstruction by a herd of goats

 

 

A Night Boat Ride to Dinner

Selimiye, Turkey

The car drives up out of the tiny town and into the hills and dark - winding roads, a hill back down and we're at the edge of the water. Our taxi, a small motorboat ambles in from the dark. We pile in - not too many people on one side please - and go motoring off into the near black, a slight wind.

A small restaurant, only accessible by boat, comes into view - two tiers, perfectly landscaped to fit into the hillside. A moon, delicious food, candles and the quietest of conversations. Light on the water.

As the night continues on just a few of us remain. Another guest picks up a guitar and playing flamenco-style music, singing and bantering into the night. Magic. 

ay ve su